Thursday, March 15, 2007 Older Editions

FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Don't disparage the Asparagus!

By Terry Kay Bargar

You've seen them in all of the markets, those slender stems standing upright in a puddle of water, bundled with rubber bands earmarking 20 or so individual stalks. Gorgeous green in color, occasionally creamy white or even regally purple, asparagus heralds the triumphant return of springtime like no other food can. Asparagus grows like crazy in home gardens and produces edible spears from its submerged crown after about 3 years. Then it will reign supremely for an additional 20 to 30 years. It has zero fat, zero cholesterol, minimal sodium, and huge amounts of folic acid, potassium, fiber, thiamin and assorted vitamins. Asparagus is the king of healthy vegetables!

When I was young I really detested the taste of asparagus. It was bitter. It was stringy. It looked, well, just plain weird! Long stalks with flowery heads... Yuk! Who created the idea to eat those things?

Now that I'm all grown up (OK, sort of grown up) I can understand my former negative attitude. When cooked improperly, asparagus tastes sour and turns to pulpy strands. You've got to cook them right - the recipe below describes the perfect preparation method.

Questions about asparagus...

1. Why is some asparagus white instead of green?

Think back to high school earth science. Leaves and plants turn green through a process called "photosynthesis". When you block the sun's rays from reaching the plant then it won't turn green. White asparagus is the same as the more common green asparagus, but the shoots are covered, denying them sunlight and therefore they don't turn green. They stay white.

2. Are pencil-thin asparagus spears better tasting than thick stalks?

Nope, it's a personal preference. Just like some humans are small-boned or large-boned, some asparagus pop out of the ground fat and others skinny. Neither is better for you; they are exactly the same except for diameter.

3. How do you store asparagus?

Since asparagus is a member of the lily family you should treat it as you would any cut flower. Cut off a little bit of the ends and place the asparagus "bouquet" in a jar of water. Not too much water, perhaps an inch or so. Replace the water daily. Stored in the refrigerator this bouquet will last for 3-4 days.

In the 1950s and '60s my family ate its vegetables boiled in plain tap water. No embellishments, no sauces or flourishes of any kind. Actually I enjoy eating vegetables "plain." Too often, strong seasonings overpower their flavor. But I can't write a recipe for steamed asparagus; even the most novice home cook doesn't need instructions for steaming. So this week I developed a variety of asparagus recipes. I won't tell you about the failed attempts at upside-down asparagus and brie quiche (crust on top, then flip it over... a comical idea that tasted great but was poor on execution).

I also won't write about the thick cucumber slices with asparagus tips, covered in cheese and broiled until the cheese was brown and bubbly. (Wow, hot cheese really slides right off a piece of cucumber!). But I will write about the tasty perfect hors d'oeuvres developed before cocktail hour and perfected while drinking a glass (or two) of white wine. Rick and I served these tidbits at a dinner party and our guests ate 'em up. They are a great balance of crunch, creaminess, salt and of course, asparagus.

Grissini Asparagus

Makes approximately two dozen

Grissini are thin Italian breadsticks. Several varieties are available, some with sesame seeds, others with garlic, and of course, plain. This recipe is ridiculously simple to make but incredibly delicious to eat! Fresh asparagus, cooked to perfection, crisp grissini breadsticks, a tiny sliver of semi-soft cheese all wrapped in salty prosciutto... the best part is that these hors d'oeuvres hold their shape and since they are low in calories you hold your shape, too!

o one-half lemon

o 2 teaspoons salt

o 1 bunch of asparagus (about 24 spears), woody ends "snapped"

o 24 grissini breadsticks, any flavor (use the same number of grissini as asparagus, one breadstick per stem of asparagus)

o 12 pieces prosciutto, thinly sliced and then cut in half lengthwise (making 24 long pieces... one for each breadstick)

o cheese (a tiny little bit... I especially enjoy Gouda with Mustard Seeds in this recipe, cut into matchstick-size lengths)

1. Take out a large cookie sheet and line it with a clean tea towel. We will be using this pan and towel to hold the asparagus after they are cooked. The towel will perfectly dry the vegetables. This is a great idea for drying blanched vegetables for crudité platters, too.

2. Take out a big skillet or sauté pan. Add some water, enough to coat the pan with about one-half inch of liquid, and turn the heat up high. When it comes to a boil add the half lemon. You can squeeze the lemon into the water or just put the cut piece directly into the water... either way you'll add flavor to the liquid and to the asparagus. Next add two teaspoons of salt. The water will be dancing!

3. Add the star of the show, the asparagus. You've already snapped off the ends of the vegetables so carefully place them in the boiling water (in a single layer). There will be plenty of room in the pan.

4. When the water comes back to the boil the asparagus are done. The actual cooking time will take somewhere between 30 seconds and 2 minutes, depending on the amount of asparagus and the depth of the water, but trust me, this is a no-fail absolute guarantee method that produces perfect asparagus every time. Rinse them under cold water to lock in that fabulous verdant green color and stop the cooking process. Now lay the spears out on the tea towel and let them air dry.

5. When the asparagus are completely dry prepare an assembly line of grissini breadsticks, asparagus spears, cheese pieces and prosciutto. Place one grissini next to an asparagus, top with cheese, and then carefully wrap (on the diagonal) the prosciutto around the entire combination. Repeat. Repeat again. Keep going. Once you've used up all the ingredients, pour yourself a glass of soda or wine, sit back, drink, eat and enjoy.